From On Board: Day 5: SH Minerva in Melanesia; Witu Welcome

#expeditioncruising .

Vessel: SH Minerva
Location: Witu, Garove Island, PNG
Itinerary: Wild Eden of Papua New Guinea

I'll always remember little Witu, just off the western coast of New Britain as a place of stunning natural beauty and the performances of the Catholic mission children in their elaborate face paint and headdresses.

SH Minerva at anchor inside Witu's caldera (Swan Hellenic)

A long-dormant volcano, the resultant caldera held strategic value as a place of shelter for both Allied and Japanese vessels during WWII. If I recall correctly, a number of Japanese barges were spotted and destroyed by Australian aircraft, and their wrecks remain somewhere in the lagoon.

In 2006, I landed here with the late Dr Nancy Sullivan, and we were treated to magnificent performances by the local people. Several photos were used over and over in my stories and one even became a postcard. The beaming face of that child became an all-time favourite, and it struck me that I may be able to find that child again, who would be well into her late 20s.

Witu 2006: Memories came flooding back from my previous visit (Roderick Eime)

Jessica 2026 (RE)

Again, those intricate costumes and body paint were a feature of the performances that once again enthralled us and had lenses zooming and smartphones poised.

As the show wound down, I enquired with the chief of the village, who immediately recognised Jessica, who had been part of our dockside welcoming party and had just moments before deftly dissected a coconut for my enjoyment. I only wish I had captured the look on her face when she recognised herself in that photo. It was a truly priceless moment, and I foolishly promised to see her again in another 20 years.

About Witu Island:

The Witu Islands, also known as the Vitu Islands, lie off the north coast of West New Britain Province in the Bismarck Sea. The group includes several islands, the largest being Garove, Unea, Mundua and Narage. Garove is the most prominent, formed by a volcanic caldera that now holds a large saltwater crater lake, one of the most striking natural features in the region.

The islands are volcanic in origin, with fertile soils that support subsistence agriculture. Local communities grow crops such as taro, yams, bananas, and coconuts, and rely heavily on fishing. The population is predominantly Melanesian, speaking Austronesian languages and maintaining strong clan-based social structures.

European contact began in the late nineteenth century, followed by German colonial administration and later Australian control. During World War II, the islands were occupied by Japanese forces and saw limited military activity.

Culturally, the Witu Islands are known for traditional dances, shell valuables and exchange systems similar to those found across the Bismarck Archipelago. Today, the islands remain remote with limited infrastructure, though small-scale tourism and occasional expedition cruise visits occur. Their isolation has helped preserve both cultural traditions and relatively intact marine and coastal environments.

Tweet