From On Board: Bigge Island, Kimberley

#expeditioncruising .

Location: Bigge Island, Western Australia
GPS: Google Map Ref
Vessel: Seabourn Pursuit (under charter to APTouring)

Overlooking our landing site on Bigge Island

In 20 years of travelling to the Kimberley and sailing amongst these beautiful islands and landscapes, it's only the second time I've set foot here.

Bigge Island art (WGAC)

While several Kimberley cruise operators visit here regularly, others do not. It's always puzzled me, as Bigge Island has some excellent and accessible Wandjina rock art right at the beach landing.

Named by Captain Phillip Parker King in 1820 after John Thomas Bigge, an English judge and royal commissioner, the island is six kilometres from the mainland and, at 178 sq km, is the second largest island in the Bonaparte Archipelago, named in 1801 by Nicolas Baudin, the French explorer who sailed these waters almosts parrallel to Matthew Flinders. 

It's situated on the traditional land of the Wunambal people, known as Wuuyuru in their language, and holds special spiritual significance. Apart from the art, the ceremonial rock circles are an indication that these sites were also used for ceremonial purposes.  These sites are considered sacred by the Aboriginal people, as they connect them to their ancestors and the Dreamtime, a spiritual realm in which the Rainbow Serpent plays a prominent role.

We know that human remains were carefully placed in the rock crevices adjacent to the beach after funerary rites were performed within these circles. During these rites, the body of the deceased is placed within the circle and covered with soil, leaves and branches and allowed to decompose. Later, the bones are cleaned and painted with ochre and wrapped in bark before being interred in the cliffs.

Bigge Island landing site (Harry Rogers)

The relatives of the deceased then perform an elaborate smoking ceremony before leaving the island, ensuring the spirit of the departed does not try to follow. Hence, Bigge Island is not a place of prior habitation by past generations, but rather a place reserved for the spirits and the resting place for Gayarra Wanjina Aarwarrndju – the 'boss' of all this place.

Over the years, stories have circulated among the tourism operators of strange happenings on Bigge Island. Visitors who have strayed beyond the designated boundaries have reported a physical sensation of being urged back to the beach or gently nudged away from art that was not for their eyes. It is especially forbidden to tamper with the human remains in the caves, and some who have ignored this advice report eerie sensations.

Monjon (Petrogale burbidgei) Photo by Richard Fuller

Beyond any supernatural encounters among the broken sandstone formations, significant fauna, including the endemic Monyjon (endemic little rock wallaby), can be found. Mangguru (turtles) nest, and Balngga (crocodile) tracks abound. 

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