Tuesday, 25 November 2025

From On Board: AmaMagna on the Eastern Danube

#expeditioncruising .

Location: Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria
Vessel: AmaWaterways Amamagna

Choir singers at the historic Veliko Tarnovo church

Their mesmeric chants echoed through the tiny 13th-century church like disembodied archangels calling the faithful to prayer.

Here in Veliko Tarnovo, just to the north of Bulgaria's geographic centre, our little group from AmaMagna is shoehorned into the vestibule-sized nave to see the exquisite ancient murals and hear the three senior clergy perform their renowned holy chants.

Veliko Tarnovo's history is long and complicated. Perched along the deep, chasmic Yantra River valley, characterised by sheer rocky ravines, it rose to become the capital of the Second Bulgarian Empire beginning in the 1100s, with a human history dating back some 5000 years. A major political, economic, and cultural centre, the town is chock-full of churches of various ages and was also the home of the Bulgarian nobility.

Ancient fortress wall of Tsarevets in Veliko Tarnovo, Bulgaria

Under Ottoman control for around 500 years, it was eventually liberated in the 19th century and returned to Bulgarian national identity.

On this cool, clear late Autumn day, we stroll the ornate streets, a hotch-potch of medieval and modern architecture - and everything in between - and hike to the Tsarevets, an ancient walled fortress with its former cathedral overlooking the valley that could easily be imagined in a scene from Game of Thrones.

Cobbled Streets of Veliko Tarnovo in Bulgaria

Knick-knack and artisan shops line the narrow, cobbled streets, replete with everything from fridge magnets and bottle-openers to delicate watercolours. I secure a small swatch of colourful postcards before boarding the bus to return to our superb river vessel, awaiting us at the port of Svishtov.

Bulgaria generally does not feature on Australian travellers' bucket lists, yet it is a natural extension of the immensely popular Danube River cruises enjoyed by thousands of Aussie river cruise lovers. Often referred to as the poorest country in the EU, Bulgaria certainly has its challenges. On our coach transfer, there is an inordinate number of derelict industrial, commercial and residential buildings, indicative of Bulgaria’s declining population - a trend that began after the collapse of the Soviet Union and Eastern Bloc in 1989 and continues to this day.

What is unmistakable, though, is the dramatic countryside still thickly wooded in many areas despite its tumultuous past and the vast fields of rich dark soil ploughed and ready for next season’s crop of corn, barley, rye, oats and soybeans.

amamagna

Our accommodation between ports of exploration is the AmaMagna, the superb 135m, 196-passenger flagship of the premium river cruise line, AmaWaterways. This slender waterborne palace contains every comfort a traveller could wish for and then some. Although at 26m wide, ‘slender’ may not be entirely accurate, given that most comparable vessels are seldom wider than 13m. This extra width allows for greater guest comfort and inclusions, placing AmaMagna in a unique class of her own.

To paraphrase AmaWaterways' own description, the AmaMagna offers various accommodations, including oversize suites from 33 to 66 square metres with balconies. Dining options include the Main Restaurant, The Chef’s Table, Jimmy’s family-style restaurant, and the Al Fresco Restaurant, the latter noted for serving vegetable-focused cuisine.

There is also a sun-deck pool and whirlpool, as well as a Zen Wellness Studio with a fitness centre, massage rooms, hair salon, nail salon, and juice bar. A full-size pickleball court is located on the Sun Deck. As an added feature, AmaMagna offers connecting staterooms and triple/quadruple accommodations, making it ideal for families and groups.

Our 7-night ‘Festive Delights’ Danube River cruise winds through Romania, Bulgaria, Serbia, and Croatia, culminating in Budapest.

For more information or to reserve an AmaWaterways river cruise and land package, contact AmaWaterways on 1800 867 126 (AU) or 0800 005 636 (NZ) or visit amawaterways.au or amawaterways.nz.

ExpeditionCruising.com’s publisher, Roderick Eime, is sailing as a guest of AmaWaterways on assignment for Luxury Travel Magazine.



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