Alaska is somewhere I’ve never been. My knowledge of it was scant. It’s cold. It’s an American state, though oddly detached from mainland USA. And there’s all sorts of fantastic wildlife including huskies who, despite the often sub-zero temperatures, always seem incredibly happy. I like nothing better than going to some place of which I know so little. Alaska fitted that perfectly.
Windstar's Star Seeker
The embarkation queue snaked around Vancouver port terminal. Anticipation mounting, we had our first glimpse of home for the next eight nights.
‘It looks nice’, Caroline and I gazed at the mid-size cruise ship.
‘No, that’s not it’, said our queue mates Liz & Shirley, ‘It’s the little one beside it’.
We were smitten. She was sleek and elegant, looking just as a boutique cruise ship ought.
The Star Seeker is small and perfectly formed. Like excited children we explored the bars, lounges and restaurants, finally arriving at our own beautifully designed suite. Fresh flowers, fruit and wine welcomed us. Inaugurated in January 2026, she’s the newest addition to Windstar’s fleet. Being the first sail of the Alaskan season, the passenger count is only 169. Full capacity is 224. Before we knew it we were sailing; farewell Vancouver, onwards and upwards. North to Alaska.
There’s nothing as relaxing as cruising; unpacking once and few decisions required. Each night we’re gently rocked to sleep and each morning we awaken in a new destination. It’s all smooth sailing as we travel up the Inside Passage. The Inside Passage, in southeast Alaska, consists of over a thousand islands and fjords. It stretches from Washington State, through British Columbia to Skagway. The many islands provide calm seas and sanctuary for wildlife. The commanding forests that surround us is home for black bears and mountain goats, while beneath us seals, otters and whales make occasional appearances, thrilling us every time they surface.
It doesn’t take long to find a favourite nook, it’s the Yacht Club. If the brief was to create the most beautiful room in the world, they’ve succeeded. Located at the front of the ship, the lounge room is semi-circular with 180° views. Twenty-four full length windows feature the ever-changing vistas; majestic mountains one day, towering forests the next, then a sea filled with tiny icebergs. In the background yacht rock music mixed with the tap and whir of the cappuccino machine.
Creek Street, Ketchikan
It’s the beginning of Alaska’s cruising season. The temperatures are still cold, and there are few cruise ships about. We have Ketchikan to ourselves. The town is a delightful mix of colour and geometry with church steeples, totems and bright gabled cottages. We sought out Creek Street, once the red-light district. Behind Creek Street was Married Man’s Trail, a short boardwalk that allowed men an escape route whenever the brothels were raided.
Ketchikan is the salmon capital of the world, however it wasn’t salmon we were seeking on this chilly afternoon, it was hot chocolates. We slipped into the New York Cafe, cradled our hands around large mugs and savored our drinks. The cafe was originally owned by a Japanese family who’d come from New York, adding a cosmopolitan flavour to the township. That ended in WWII when the Japanese residents were rounded up and placed in internment camps.
A few days later we arrive at our second port, Wrangell. A short walk from the dock led down to the beach where there was a number of petroglyphs. These rock carvings date back 8000 years. Wrangell was filled with colourful identities. Kim, originally from New York, decided to get as far away as she could after 9/11. Once a corporate executive, in Wrangell she began sewing, knitting, crocheting and lace-making, enough to fill a shop with her beautiful wares.
Wrangell sported that rare thing, a post office. I scribbled a few postcards and along the way met Terry and Dale. They were getting together to adjust the sights on their rifles before the hunting season commenced. Terry had been the local cop for twenty years. Dale informed me he had a 270 Winchester. They expanded, Wrangell was a peaceful community, they only shot deer. No-one kills anyone. Well apart from back in 2003 when Shandelle, her Mum and her friend were all killed by the Mum’s boyfriend. ‘I’d cautioned Shandelle for drinking just a few hours beforehand. Liquor is the real problem’ Terry reminisced. Terry had something in common with Wyatt Earp who, in 1898, served as Wrangell’s Deputy Marshall. He moved on after ten days, he thought the town was too wild.
Palling up with Captain Hook
At Sitka we flung open the curtains and were greeted with sunshine. Clear blue skies silhouetted snow-capped mountains. Two other ships were in port, both Royal Caribbean, increasing the population of Sitka from 9000 to about 15,000.
Sitka was once the Russian capital of Alaska, then it was known as New Archangel. Between 1799 and 1867 Alaska was under Russian rule. The distance between the Russia and Alaska mainlands is only 89km. The Russians hunted otters, trading their skins with China for tea. Weakened by the loss of the Crimean War and with the probability of being conquered by British Canada, the Russians decided to sell the land to the United States. They sold it for $7.2 million, 2 cents per acre. Today Alaska, with its gold and rare earth minerals, is worth over $500 billion.
In the distance was the stately Mount Edgecumbe. A volcano dormant for 4000 years, it was a shock for residents when they woke on 1st April 1974 to plumes of thick black smoke emerging from its crater. Many rapidly packed their bags and tried to leave, however on closer inspection the local rangers found a 50-foot sign in the snow ‘April Fool’. Porky Bickar, a local identity, had planned the joke for three years. He’d collected 70 old tyres, soaked them in kerosene and dropped them into the crater before lighting them. He was about to be charged, however the Sitkans realised the joke and he was set free.
Endicott Arm
A day at sea and Captain Tom anchored the ship next to a spectacular glacier. Occasionally he’d spin the ship around, but generally it was a lazy day for him. I anchored myself in the Yacht Club for a day of gazing. Icebergs of varying sizes floated by. They were mesmerising. No two are alike. Caroline, on the other hand, took one for the team. She donned layers and waterproof gear for a kayaking adventure; getting up close and personal with the icebergs. One of many highlights was when the zodiac pulled up beside them delivering hot chocolate.
At the tiny town of Haines, a shuttle bus awaited us. We thought the bus driver was joking when he said it would take 5 minutes to do a loop of the township. He wasn’t. With the advent of the gold rush, it was decided that the town required a military presence. A fort was constructed along with housing for the officers. The fort is long gone, but the homes have been beautifully restored and are now guesthouses.
This tiny town, population 1800, has a lot to offer. At the Raptor Centre we learnt that bald-headed eagles aren’t really bald, their white head feathers make them the appear that way. Life can be so unfair! We encountered eagles, owls, a red-tailed hawk and a rather large taxidermied moose. Taxidermy is pretty popular here. Something to do on those long winters’ nights.
Too soon we arrived at our final destination, Juneau, the capital of Alaska. There were hugs and handshakes as Captain Tom and the crew farewelled us as we disembarked. Cruising on the Star Seeker was definitely a five-star experience.
still travelling,
Ros
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