The island of Buka is a new destination for me and one that reminded me of the Bougainville people's determination to achieve full independence.
After a Zodiac ride up the channel, we arrived at the little wharf and transferred to the government building for a traditional welcome of song and dance. And no welcome would be complete without the PVC pipe orchestra. This particular bamboo band, the Black Dot Hangana, was the largest ensemble I'd witnessed, with about a dozen pipe instruments making up the band. Each instrument contained numerous pipes, all tuned to create a wall of sound to make Phil Spector proud.
At the end of the proceedings, we were addressed by Rose Pihei, Deputy Speaker of the Autonomous Region of Bougainville, who thanked us for coming and prefaced her people's hope to become the world's newest nation in 2027. A pronouncement that was met with rapturous applause.
From a historical perspective, it is worth remembering that Buka was a significant Japanese base in WWII, with the Japanese taking over and upgrading the Australian-built airstrip near the township in 1942. The base was never retaken, instead subject to constant bombardment and isolated until the surrender in September 1945. A Japanese AA gun in front of the small terminal serves as a reminder.
Before heading back to SH Minerva, we inspected the busy market, a centrepiece of the local region.
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