From aboard Ponant Le Soleal: A Sense of Salvador

It's Brazil's largest port by size and one of the world's most favourable harbours with an enclosed body of water, at more than 1000sqkm, larger than the whole of Hong Kong. At an average of 42m, it's deep and the long passenger wharf has seen three or more famous cruise ships tied up at once. A big, shiny new three storey cruise terminal welcomes guests and even has free WiFi. But hard times seems to have fallen on UNESCO World Heritage-listed Salvador da Bahia's tourism industry.

"I used to get dozens of jobs a year," laments my guide, "but now it's just a few."

Our coach drives us through downtown and on to the seaside areas of this beautifully located city of three million inhabitants. Carnivale in Salvador is in the old style and winds through the streets, taking seven hours to run the course.

Our coach leaves us in the historic centre where ornate churches, spotlessly clean squares with statues and cobblestones and a variety of architecture dictate the scene. Locals set up food and souvenir stalls and the women carry themselves proudly, many wearing traditional colonial costumes. Tourist police gather on every corner, overseeing the welfare of the visitors who must number in countless ... dozens.

So what could possibly be holding Salvador back from tourism prosperity with what seems like a God-given set of tools for a bustling tourist industry? I'm still scratching my head.

Expedition kit: ChargeUp Digital 6,000 Portable Powerbank

Take a look around you. Just about everyone you see is dialled into their smart device of one sort of another. Androids, iPhones, tablets and iPads are the ubiquitous and inseparable accessory for today's traveller and commuter. We've come to rely on these increasingly sophisticated devices, not just for simple voice and data communication, but also for photography, GPS mapping and social media sharing.

Portable and lightweight, they have have replaced many of the cumbersome and bulky kit we were once burdened with on our travels. Travellers in particular have become wedded to these accessories as part of their mandatory packing list. How do you get to the bus station or airport, convert currency or even translate phrases and instructions? Yep, how did we ever travel without them?

As connected travellers, we've all experienced the panic and frustration of trying to get that last email or text message as the battery warning light flashes urgently before we are cast adrift in an analogue no man's land of dark alleys and strange foreign faces. Did you bring your charger? Will it plug into the curious puzzle that is supposed to be a power socket? Can you sneak a USB cable into the back of a random TV without looking like a shoplifter?

In the last few years, we've seen a spray of portable batteries designed to rescue us at the last minute before our pixels fade into oblivion. Most are good enough to keep our device alive for the rest of the train journey home, but what about a transpacific flight, Siberian railway expedition or arduous desert trek? You need something with power reserve.

For the last couple weeks I have tested the sleek and powerful ChargeUp Digital 6,000 Portable Power Bank. It's light, easily packed and just has a confident feel. 6000 what BTW? This number refers to the current it can supply and for how long, measured in milliamp hours (mAh). Most 'lipstick' size units are rated at about 1000-1200 tops and we know from experience they don't cut the mustard on longer trips. Cygnett's range of ChargeUp Portable Power Banks start at a useful 2500 up to a mighty 10000.

This what they tell me and I'm inclined to agree:

Featuring the latest in Lithium polymer battery technology, the ChargeUp Digital 6,000 Portable Powerbank provides power at your fingertips for when you need it most. Ideal for when you're on the go, travelling for business or leisure, the ChargeUp 6,000 is slimline and compact, making it the perfect addition to every backpack, laptop bag, handbag or briefcase. It comes fully pre-charged for instant use and provides up to 3-4 phone charges before needing to be recharged. Thanks to a handy digital display you'll always know how much power you have left. The ChargeUp 6,000 can be used to power any device that uses a USB connection to charge, and with two 2A USB sockets can quickly charge two devices at once. Use it to charge a huge variety of gadgets from smartphones, to your GoPro, portable speakers and even a Fitbit or Apple Watch.

The whole range and pricing can be found here: https://www.cygnett.com/collections/portable-power-banks

Ponant L'Austral to dry dock in Manila. Cruise interrupted.

The 264-passenger luxury expedition vessel, L'Austral will enter dry dock in Manila to undergo a full inspection for hull damage after two separate accidents earlier this year, according to reports in Cruise Critic.

The report goes on to say "L'Austral altered the itinerary after its stop at the coral reef of Rajah Ampat, Indonesia, and headed directly to Manila, where passengers have been moved to hotels. During the three-day "stopover", the line is providing complimentary five-star accommodation and land-based activities, with three Ponant executives flying in from France to assist passengers."

Read the full report at Cruise Critic

From on board Ponant Le Soleal: We go to Rio

I went to Rio, Rio de Janeiro 

Ponant 'In the heart of Brazil' aboard Le Soleal 8-17 March, 2017

BLAAARP !! BLAAARP !!

I needed have bothered to set my alarm as the fog horn outside my window more than adequately got my attention.

The scene from my little private balcony was one of thick mist blanketing a mirror-still ocean. Le Soleal crept along at a sea snail's pace in the late evening gloom as we approached the entrance to one of the world's most famous harbours, Rio de Janeiro. By the time we'd tied up around midnight, the fog had lifted somewhat and Le Soleal was neatly berthed at the downtown pier.

Rio was an even bigger surprise to the Portuguese fleet sailing for India in 1500 when the towering monoliths of the famous 400m Sugar Loaf and 710m Corcovado greeted their tiny caravels in Guanabara Bay.

As any first-timer should, I'm making a beeline for these twin icons of Brazil and on this quiet, steamy Sunday it looks like we may just avoid the notorious tourist crush known to overwhelm these sites.

Many movie fans will recall Roger Moore as James Bond tackling the fearsome evil giant, Jaws, on the cable car to the peak in Moonraker. Fortunately, no such ordeal faced me as our group shuffled into the newest (third) variant of the Sugar Loaf cable car, installed in the last decade and able to take 70 tightly packed sightseers to the summit in just three minutes. Despite some lingering smog on this bright windless day, the view across the bay is quite spectacular and big Jesus on the Corcovado yonder rises imperiously through the wispy clouds in an oft-repeated 'second coming' to embrace His city.

Our coach winds through the surprisingly empty Sunday streets and parks of the city, past a mixture of architectural styles ranging from the ornate late Renaissance to the ubiquitous modern and monotonous glass and tile monuments displacing all else in so many cities of the world. The landmark cathedral is a curious amalgam of styles, looking something like a giant Mercury space capsule or Star Wars citadel from one of their mythical worlds.

I now have an appointment with Christ the Redeemer atop the adjacent Corcovado mountain. His benevolent 30m likeness was installed in 1931 and has defined the city ever since. We meter on to the electric train which rides almost to the 700m summit where, once alighted, we can ascend the final holy escalator to gaze up at Him from his feet. His pose makes me wonder whether He his welcoming and blessing the assembled masses, or about to take a swan dive. Either way, it's a moving experience enjoying the view while trying not to get impaled on a selfie stick.

Our final salute to this magnificent city is a swing-by of the famous beaches of Ipanema and Copacabana where the multitudinous brown bottoms hang out along the seemingly endless stretch of sand.

My début visit to Rio dispelled several preconceived notions of this city and perhaps it was this quiet balmy Sunday, but there was never a feeling of being crowded or unsafe, the streets were spotless compared to the more familiar pavements of Sydney, and the spectacular setting was every bit as eye-popping as the postcards portray. Of course, things would be wildly different during one of the many festivals or sporting events, but for now, I'm content with a placid experience. I'll let the likes of Peter Allen and Carmen Miranda carry that torch.

For more information about Ponant's luxury itineraries, see www.ponant.com

For independent travel to Brazil, see www.movidas.com.au

One Ocean Expeditions 2018 Season 'Trip of a Lifetime' Cruise Series

#expeditioncruising

The spotlight shines on Canada's North this year as the world is invited to discover epic locations in Canada celebrating 150 years of confederation. This event has inspired Canadian cruise specialist, One Ocean Expeditions (OOE), to introduce even more in-depth Canadian Arctic exploration.

The intimate and immersive nature of OOE's small ship expedition cruises impacts travellers' lives, while enhancing their appreciation for the Arctic and other Canadian destinations. OOE has been developing sustainable Arctic tourism for over a decade and is consistently innovative in creating itineraries that take visitors to some of the most unspoiled places on the planet, with programs focusing on education, science, history, arts, culture and exploration. OOE's small ship adventures provide travellers with access to archeological sites, remote Inuit communities and wildlife viewing opportunities experienced by few.

OOE's 2018 cruise season continues to inspire, with the introduction of a 'Circumpolar Art in the Arctic' program that bridges the Norwegian Arctic and the Canadian High Arctic through visual art. Internationally acclaimed artists include Cory Trepanier, David McEown, Bruce Pearson and Christopher Cran; wildlife documentary producer Karen Bass; and international award-winning photographer Daisy Gilardini, as well as polar scientists, historians and ambassadors of The Royal Canadian Geographical Society.

New for 2018 is the inaugural 'Canada's East Coast Golf Expedition.' The seven-night expedition cruise invites guests to experience some of the prime golf courses along Canada's East Coast. Passengers enjoy the luxury of waking up every morning to a new course and the ease of boarding an expedition zodiac to take them ashore for their next round of golf. With additional expedition stops at Sable Island and Iles de Madeleine, this program offers unbeatable memories for golfers and non-golfing partners alike.

From early July to the end of September, OOE operates several 12-night 'Classic Northwest Passage' voyages emphasising early Arctic exploration. Along with a historical focus, guests travel to some of the last remaining great wilderness regions on the planet with sightings of polar bears, whales and myriad bird species.

The nine-night 'High Arctic Explorer' voyage commences in Resolute, Nunavut, one of the most northern outposts in the Canadian Arctic. This trip offers the perfect blend of wildlife, history, culture and scenery. Whilst the 11-night 'Baffin Island - Jewel of the Arctic' trip introduced in 2016 has already become one of the top selling voyages.

The 10-night 'Labrador and Torngat Explorer' cruise departs from the historic town of Louisbourg, Nova Scotia and explores two iconic National Parks: Gros Morne and Torngat Mountains. Exploring the rugged Newfoundland & Labrador coast provides an abundance of wildlife experiences whilst sailing to Nunavut's capital, Iqaluit.

A number of early booking offers are in place for travel in summer 2018. For Canada's East Coast Fins and Fiddles and Golf Expedition a complimentary pre-voyage hotel and US$100 shipboard bar credit is provided. For all other Arctic and Labrador voyages, early bookings benefit from a flight credit ranging from US$500 to US$1000 per person. All offers expire May 31, 2017. ONE CLUB Loyalty Program members (past travellers with OOE) can apply their 10% loyalty savings to any current booking offers.

Hapag-Lloyd names new expedition cruise ships

#expeditioncruising

The new expedition ships have been named HANSEATIC nature and HANSEATIC inspiration.

Karl J. Pojer, CEO of Hapag-Lloyd Cruises, said: "The potential in the expedition ship segment is more than three times higher than supply. By virtue of the comfort and luxuriousness of our state-of-the-art new vessels, we will appeal to even more customers in the luxury segment in future. At the same time, authentic, natural spectacles that convey the feeling of a personal expedition have always been the basis for our decision-making."

"With our choice of names, we are continuing the success story of today's HANSEATIC – the only 5-star expedition ship** – retaining the popular and well-known brand name and establishing a new and separate class within our fleet."

HANSEATIC nature
Commissioning: April 2019
Ship category: 5-stars-expedition segment
Max. passenger capacity: 230 (199 for Antarctic expeditions)
Passenger decks: 7
Market: Germany, Austria and Switzerland

HANSEATIC inspiration
Commissioning: October 2019
Ship category: 5-stars-expedition segment
Max. passenger capacity: 230 (199 for Antarctic expeditions)
Passenger decks: 7
Market: German and English speaking markets, e.g. UK, Belgium, Netherlands, Australia/New Zealand and U.S.A.

The design concept, "inspired by nature", reflects the expeditionary spirit and is the creative idea underpinning both ships.

Nature is not only experienced outside, but also is reflected in the interior design. This comes to the fore in the choice of materials, colours and forms, as well as in the contours and lines of walls and surfaces, the lines of sight and therefore the interplay between the interiors and the world outside.

A genuine expeditionary feeling ensures the all-round deck in the forecastle. Here, passengers can experience the action at close quarters – closer even than the captain. This contributes to the expeditionary character, especially when the ships embark on journeys to the Arctic, Antarctic or Amazon. The on-board design highlights include also the two extendible glass balconies. Passengers standing on these balconies can experience the unique feeling of floating over the ocean.

Outstandig route concept and modern environmental technology

The current and successful route concept, which focuses on untouched and unspoilt regions, will be continued and expanded. PC6, the highest ice class for passenger ships, makes it possible to conduct expeditions far into Polar waters, with tropical destinations such as the South Seas and the Amazon remaining on the itinerary.

HANSEATIC nature and HANSEATIC inspiration have been fitted with cutting-edge equipment and environmental technology: the hulls of the two ships have been optimised to achieve the maximum reduction in fuel consumption for the propulsion system. Additionally, PROMAS rudder with a special propeller also reduce fuel consumption and therefore lower emissions anda SCR catalytic converter reduces nitrogen oxide emissions by almost 95 per cent.

The IR ice detectors are a further highlight, with the infrared camera making it possible to spot ice at night and in misty conditions. Cold ironing is also envisioned.

16 on-board Zodiacs and E-Zodiacs with eco-friendly electric drive systems allow for landings in remote expedition areas, regardless of the vicinity to a port. The ships also have a marina for water sports.

For the movie click here.

** According to Berlitz Cruise Guide 2017


Hapag-Lloyd Kreuzfahrten GmbH
www.hl-cruises.com

From on board Ponant Le Soleal: Rough seas to Rio

"Adventure is not dead. I know adventure is not dead because I have had along and intimate correspondence with adventure." - Jack London, The Cruise of the Snark, when reading hundreds of applications for crew on his 45' yacht prior to his 1907 round-the-world voyage.

It's been more than a couple of years since I've been aboard one of the superb Ponant vessels, so the opportunity to examine Le Soleal, the third in the fleet of four ultra-modern and compact cruise ships was quickly jumped at. That, and a chance to make personal maiden calls to the east coast of South America, made the whole package irresistible.

From my earlier polar experiences aboard older sisters, Le Boreal and L'Austral, I had already developed a distinct affection for the 142m, 10,000 ton vessels which package chic design and technological prowess with adventurous itineraries that leave few parts of the world unexplored.

Launched in 2014, Le Soleal follows closely the layouts of the senior pair with 132 twin cabins. Newest Le Lyrial differs slightly, offering larger deluxe cabins on Deck 6 with a reduced total of 122.

As we departed the seldom visited (at least for Australians) port of Montevideo in Uruguay, it wasn't long before we encountered 3m-4m swells and 30 knot winds sailing north toward our next port of Rio de Janeiro. Le Soleal's extra length, compared to similar vessels in this class, soothed the oceans somewhat although it was interesting see Deck 6 awash as the mighty waves broke over the bow.

Two sea days gives plenty of time to explore this intimate vessel. I'm in the company of 140 mainly French guests, joined by a smattering of other nationalities including two Australian couples.

My companion on this trip is the 30-year-old Jack London and his 1911 book: "The Cruise of the Snark". I've been trying to read this for several months and will now get the chance. I'll sprinkle in some pertinent quotes as the journey progresses.

Images:

• Jack London and I at the bar.
• Crew on the bridge of Le Soleal ponder the weather ahead.
• Sleek and chic: Le Soleal

Next: I go to Rio, Rio de Janeiro 

Local anger as Caledonian Sky strikes reef in Raja Ampat

#expeditioncruising .

Local tourism development body, Stay Raja Ampat, has reported on their Facebook page that MS Caledonian Sky ran aground on a reef around midday local time on 4 March.

Caledonian Sky stuck momentarily on a reef in Raja Ampat (Stay Raja Ampat/Facebook)

Raja Ampat is one of the last remaining pristine reef locations in the world and is of enormous ecological and scientific significance, hence the attraction to visiting expedition cruise ships.

As can be seen in the comments, the event has caused great concern among both locals and foreigners familiar with the location. Questions are understandably being asked about how a ship of this size and sophistication can strike a reef in an area supposedly with good charts.

Claims are also being made that the captain was unavailable to speak with local authorities immediately after the event.

According to the manifest, there were mainly British passengers aboard and no Australians.

Caledonian Sky has since floated free and departed the area, presumably with minimal damage to the vessel. Damage to the reef is believed to be extensive and enquiries are ongoing.

To be continued.

SeaDream cruise in the Mediterranean

GROWING numbers of cruise-loving Aussie holidaymakers enamoured with the Mediterranean and the boutique mega motor-cruisers of SeaDream Yacht Club, are now choosing back-to-back sailings that give them fourteen days of luxury holidaying rather that travelling half-way around the world for just a single week aboard.

And to help them get the most out of these back-to-back voyages, SeaDream Yacht Club is giving them 10 per cent off the price of the second week – a saving of hundreds of dollars per passenger they can put towards shopping or other personal treats.

Sailing the Mediterranean from April to November, the twin SeaDream I and SeaDream II that each carry just 112 guests served by 95 crew, visit select larger ports and many smaller and captivating but uncrowded off-the-beaten-track towns, villages and harbours that the larger cruise monoliths simply can't access.

One such sailing sees SeaDream II depart Dubrovnik in Croatia on August 19 of this year for Kotor in Montenegro, Korcula, Trogir and Hvar in Croatia with an overnight in Hvar, Vieste in Italy and back to Dubrovnik where there is a final night aboard.

This can be followed by a second week from Dubrovnik to Piraeus (port for Athens) with a full day at sea, then Itea for a visit to Dephi, a transit of the historic Greek Corinth Canal, and days ashore in Hydra, Patmos, Agia Anna (Naxos) and Mykonos in Greece.

Each week's sailing starts from US$4926pp twin-share, with US$450pp off the price of the second week when coupled with the first week, and including award-winning cuisine, premium wines, spirits and bar drinks, power and sail water-sports, golf simulator, fitness centre, port charges and taxes, and even staff and crew gratuities.

For full details see travel agents or visit www.seadream.com  


PHOTO CAPTION:

[] SEADREAM II sailing in the picturesque waters of Croatia.

Winter cruise in Fiji with Blue Lagoon Cruises

#expeditioncruising .

Blue Lagoon cruises are making it easy to escape winter with a free upgrade offer on their three, four and seven-night cruises to the picturesque Mamanuca and Yasawa Islands.

Book by 30 April 2017 in a Hibiscus deck cabin and receive a free upgrade to an Orchid deck cabin and cruise into a winter getaway, valid for travel from 1 April 2017 through to 31 March 2018*.

Bonus extras in the Orchid deck cabin include complimentary daily stocked mini bar (beer, wine, soft drink, bottled water); tropical fruit platter on arrival; Nespresso coffee & tea selection in cabin; and Pure Fiji sun care gift – PLUS savings up to FJD$2940 per cabin!

Visit www.bluelagooncruises.com for bookings and cruise the South Pacific this winter.  Prices start from FJD$2200 share twin in a Hibiscus Cabin on a three night Explorer Cruise.

Known for combining soft adventure with leisurely rest and relaxation in 4-star boutique surroundings, Blue Lagoon Cruises offer a multitude of activities for guests throughout the spectacular Mamanuca and Yasawa Island playgrounds.

Aquatic based activities include swimming with Manta Rays (May-Oct); guided snorkeling safaris; glass bottom boat excursions; and a visit to the sacred Sawa-i-Lau Caves.  Exclusive to the seven-night cruise, guests will swim with reef sharks and visit the film location of the Tom Hanks movie 'Castaway'.

On land, Blue Lagoon's private beach island, Nanuya, provides a secluded location for rest and relaxation and a memorable dining experience under the stars; while beach picnics and guided walks, island village and church visits and Fijian cooking lessons will keep guests active.

On board, Meke performances and nightly entertainment such as movies under the stars are on offer.

A maximum 4 hours cruising per day ensures guests spend more time exploring onshore and less time on the ship. Cruises are always personal and friendly with the all-Fijian crew on board small ship Fiji Princess accommodating just 68 passengers.

Northwest Passage aboard Crystal Serenity

Cruiseco is delighted to offer guests the opportunity to sail for 39 nights from Anchorage to New York, aboard Crystal Serenity.

Departing on 14th August 2017, this unique itinerary includes an overnight stay in Anchorage (Seward), before setting sail on this spectacular voyage.  Guests will cruise and explore the most picturesque scenery across Alaska, Canada, Greenland, before culminating in the US.  Due to the nature of this voyage Crystal Serenity is escorted by an ice breaker throughout the passage.  Prices, which start from $32,850 per person for a Deluxe Oceanview Stateroom, includes economy class airfare from Australia to Anchorage, returning from New York with a stopover in Honolulu.

Steve Lloyd, Chief Executive Officer, Cruiseco said,

"Cruiseco is pleased to offer guests this truly amazing holiday experience, sailing through the captivating Northwest Passage, before spending time in New York and Honolulu.  This voyage provides every traveller with an array of high points.  From exploring historic towns, observing local wildlife and stunning natural landscapes, to participating in a wide selection of adventure activities, there is something to offer everyone.  Our past Northwest Passage cruises have proven to be extremely popular; normally selling out within a month therefore we would encourage anyone who would like to sail, to secure their suite with us early."

The itinerary, which has been handpicked by Cruiseco, allows guests to enjoy a combined fly, cruise and stay holiday, in some of the most spectacular countries around the world.  The North West Passage itinerary sails the North Coast of America, through the mesmerising waters of the Atlantic, Pacific and Artic Oceans, stopping in 13 ports along the way.



Voyage highlights include:

·         Nome Alaska, home to the largest gold pan in Alaska.
·         Ulukhaktok Canada, famous for its traditional art, iconic golf course and tip of the Diamond Jenness Peninsula.
·         Pond Inlet Canada, is considered the jewel of the North with ice caves to explore and an abundance of wildlife to observe.
·         Iluissat Greenland, a UNESCO World Heritage site.
·         A three night stay in the Plaza Hotel New York.
·         A three night stay in Hyatt Regency Waikiki Resort.

"Cruiseco and Crystal Cruises ensure that guests have a remarkable holiday by taking care of everything.  Aboard Crystal Serenity, guests will discover perfection and luxury.  Offering six star service, fast check-in at ports, complimentary fine wines, premium spirits and champagne and other beverages, complimentary dining in speciality restaurants and 24-hour room service" added Lloyd.

Prices to travel aboard Crystal Serenity on a 39-night holiday experience, departing on the 14th August 2017, start from $32,850* per person, based on twin share in a Deluxe Oceanview Stateroom. Fares include: Economy class airfare from Australia to Anchorage, returning from New York with a stopover in Honolulu flying with Qantas Airways and American Airlines, one night pre-cruise stay at the Sheraton Anchorage including breakfast, 32 night cruise aboard Crystal Serenity from Anchorage (Seward) to New York, three night post-cruise stay at The Plaza Hotel New York including breakfast, three night stay at the Hyatt Regency Waikiki Resort Honolulu including breakfast, private transfers between airport, hotel and ship and port charges, government fees and air taxes.

For additional itinerary options or to book whilst cabins are still available, visit www.cruising.com.au or call (02) 9492 8520.

*Prices are subject to availability and subject to change.  Terms and conditions apply.

New from Pandaw: Secret Salay

#expeditioncruising .

Pandaw expedition managers are constantly carrying out reconnaissance on the routes they sail in search of undiscovered treasures for inquisitive guests to explore.

“Salay can truly claim to have stepped off the beaten tourist track,” claims Founder Paul Strachan.

The quality of organised activities and excursions are also monitored, so when Paul recently came across the secret of Salay, he was so impressed by the wealth of history, preserved temples and sheer beauty, that he decided it was an essential addition to the Irrawaddy itinerary.

Salay is one of the most beautiful and least visited places in all of Burma, its history rooted in the twelfth and thirteenth centuries as an overspill of Old Pagan. To this day, Salay remains an active religious centre with almost fifty monasteries and many Pagan-era shrines to explore on foot, offering a truly peaceful insight into Buddhist culture. These are amazingly well-preserved thanks to the constant loving attention of the monks who tend to them.

This colourful, ancient village lies twenty-two miles from Pagan. Once a bustling trading port under British rule, Salay is now a sleepy village filled with colonial architectural treasures and timeless teak monasteries.

SALAY HOUSE, a recently restored trading company warehouse built on the banks of the Irrawaddy in 1906 is now operated as a museum. This is a cultural and historical addition to PANDAW’s itinerary where you can enjoy learning about British Colonial Burma through information panels set among artifacts and antiques. There is an extensive outdoor decking and garden area where you can pause to enjoy classic Burmese tea and admire the view over the Irrawaddy. http://www.salayhouseburma.com

Read more about Pandaw expeditions on the Irrawaddy featuring Salay https://www.pandaw.com/expeditions/mandalay-pagan-packet/