Friday, 17 April 2026

From On Board: Day 13: SH Minerva in Melanesia; Pray for Mansinam

#expeditioncruising .

Vessel: SH Minerva
Location: Mansinam Island West Papua
Itinerary: Wild Eden of Papua New Guinea


Just to prove all shore excursions have their unique qualities and surprises, so too it is with Mansinam Island (Pulau Mansinam).

While technically we are in Muslim-majority Indonesia, Mansinam Island holds particular significance for Christian Papuans. On 5 February 1855, two German Protestant missionaries, Carl Ottow and Johann Geissler, landed on the island. These two were obviously pretty good at the evangelical stuff because Christianity spread rapidly across coastal Papua and later into the highlands. What's more, February 5th is commemorated annually, drawing thousands of pilgrims to Mansinam.

Mansinam local children (RE)

When we landed, instead of a choir in robes singing holy hymns, we were “confronted” by energetic Papuans in native garb, yelping, hopping and gesticulating in a mysterious manner. This challenge soon morphed into a gleeful welcome and we were snatched from our cowering crowd and swung around in jubilant fashion to the drumbeats and chants of the body-painted men, women and children of Mansinam. 

Patung Yesus Kristus Mansinam (RE)

Sweaty and puffing, juicy green coconuts (a favourite of mine) were offered to replenish us. We then proceeded to climb the steep path to meet Big Jesus (real name Patung Yesus Kristus Mansinam) on the hilltop, a local icon that stands about 30m high on its platform, which, coincidentally, is not that much smaller than Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro (38m).

The original 19th-century German church

What did fascinate me was the apparent neglect of the whole site. The modern church near the peak (Gereja Lahai Roi) appeared abandoned and disused with weeds growing up around the pathways and the interior bare. A newer church under construction near the waterfront appeared stalled. The original, oldest church, Gereja Tua Lahai Roi, was built in the 19th century and has been left to the elements as a historical relic. So, it seemed that all three churches on Mansinam were neglected. Research I later conducted did not support that theory, saying that only the oldest church was disused. 

This large church near the foreshore lies incomplete (RE)

ExpeditionCruising.com publisher and editor, Roderick Eime, is sailing aboard SH Minerva as a guest of Swan Hellenic. For bookings and future cruise information, please visit www.swanhellenic.com 

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