Vessel: SH Minerva
Location: Madang PNG
Itinerary: Wild Eden of Papua New Guinea
Today will live in my memory as one of the most outstanding experiences anywhere in PNG.
As you know, PNG is one of the most ethnically diverse countries anywhere in the world and today reaffirmed my reflex answer when people ask me “what is your favourite country to visit?”
It's taken me every voyage and visit over 20 years to meet many of the distinct cultural groups across PNG yet here in the lush grounds of the Madang Resort, we have a dozen colourful troupes from as far away as the Highlands, the Sepik and Central province. And what a show!
Anyone who has visited PNG will know of the famous Mount Hagen Show, devised 65 years ago by the colonial authorities (known locally as kiaps) to promote peace, unity, and cultural exchange among the region’s diverse tribes, many of whom had long histories of conflict and tribal fighting. What we had here in Madang was “mini show” and a credit to our local host, Juanita Barter of Melanesian Tourist Services, who produced this spectacular. Thanks must also go to the weather gods for giving us a break from the cyclonic weather currently besetting the region.
For a couple of hours, the picturesque Madang harbour resounded to the throb of drums and the enthusiast yelps of the various diverse performers as they swirled and twirled around the makeshift arena. For me, it brought back many memories, particularly from a previous journey up the Sepik River to the remote village of Kambaramba escorted by my good friend, the late Dr Nancy Sullivan. Apart from AusAid water tanks and the occasional Brisbane Broncos NRL jersey, the village was a most authentic example of traditional Sepik River life where ancient art and superstition still ruled.
So, to my surprise and delight, a delegation of dancers and drummers were part of the day's program and a little chill went up my spine when I recalled the mud-splattered and bone-adorned sorceress who caught my attention all those years ago. Could it have been the same wide-eyed woman who cast her magic on me? We exchanged glances, and I couldn't help but feel a certain … connection!
ABOUT MADANG
Set on a sheltered peninsula along the north coast of Papua New Guinea, the city of Madang has long been one of the country’s most attractive and historically layered centres. Backed by volcanic ranges and fronted by a calm, island-dotted harbour, its location has shaped both its strategic value and cultural richness.
Madang began as a German colonial outpost in the late nineteenth century when the area was known as Friedrich Wilhelmshafen. It served as an administrative and trading centre for German New Guinea, with infrastructure and plantations established along the coast. Following World War I, control passed to Australia under a League of Nations mandate, and the town developed as a modest regional hub.
During World War II, Madang was occupied by Japanese forces before being retaken by Allied troops in 1944, leaving a legacy of wartime relics in the surrounding area.
Today, Madang is an important regional centre for commerce, education and transport in northern Papua New Guinea. Its port supports coastal shipping and trade, while institutions such as the Divine Word University contribute to its reputation as an educational hub.
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